Cowboy Hats and More

In the United States and England, this hat is also known as a derby hat (which, in itself, is derived from a style of outback hats), after Edward Smith-Stanley, 12th Earl of Derby, founder in 1780 of the Epsom Derby. The cultural significance in the United States was slightly different. Though certainly not exclusively so, the derby tended to be associated with urban culture, and particularly with the well-to-do that had risen from the working class. Hence, it was often seen on the heads of “machine politicians”, urban Irish-descended “ward heelers” and others, and so often appears in movies, comic books and comic strips of the 1930s and 1940s as a silent signal that the wearer is of this group.

Al Smith, who exemplified the urban Tammany politician of the 1920s, was often seen in his distinctive derby: typically, men’s full-sized derbies are black, but Al Smith always wore a brown derby.